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Post by Allen Gasper on Feb 9, 2011 20:58:59 GMT -8
My schematic calls for a 6 terminal head light relay, finding one has not been an easy task that is specific to the application with the correct lettering codes. I see many on the Samba, but the 6 terminal ones I see are not correct, as I believe the type I need the one shaped like a can, not a square.
I am trying to wrap up the wiring, so my question is, can I use a more common 4 or 5 terminal 6 volt relay and get the head lights to work for the short term? In other words, I am looking for a short term fix until I can find the right relay, and I need to know how to do that, unless of course, someone knows where I can get the correct one.
I would like to get this wrapped up, and my expectations are just to be able to turn the head lights on.
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Post by Jack Fisher on Feb 9, 2011 21:33:36 GMT -8
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Post by Allen Gasper on Feb 10, 2011 11:14:55 GMT -8
Jack,
I seen that some one on the Samba - but I seen the lettering was different. My schematics call for a 56 - S - J - U - 56a - F his is the same but substitutes the "U" with the "30", so I was not sure if this screws up something. I have not compared shematics to see the difference, but I did not want to buy a $40 jack-in-the-box without knowing.
Can you or others confirm I will be good with this relay based on the above?
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Post by Greg Skinner on Feb 11, 2011 20:28:45 GMT -8
Allen,
You'll be totally fine with a relay with those markings, but realistically you have no way of knowing if the relay is actually good, regardless of its NOS status. That's the risk of buying electricals on-line, but that ebay relay does look nice.
During the show season I'll try to pick these up used for no more than $1.00 each and most of them have tested good.
Greg
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Post by Allen Gasper on Feb 12, 2011 18:49:46 GMT -8
Thanks Greg. I know what you mean about not being able to test a relay and electrical items are at risk of not being what stated. I never have been a big purchaser of NOS without knowing who the person is who is selling it. In regards to pricing, $40 is really steep for a relay even for this car, but I have been looking for one at about 8 swap meets over about 8 months now and I have not found one (worth purchasing). I can probably find away to rewire the car with multiple relays to do what I need, but having the correct one simplifies everything.
Right now I need to get this rewire behind me.
Thanks.
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Post by Graham Filmer on Apr 15, 2012 11:45:51 GMT -8
I am also working to sort my headlights out. The cylindrical 'hand dimmer' relay on my 76 12v car is kaput. Reviewing the parts list it is part no 343 941 583 (availability nil!) but is was replaced with 111 941 583A according to the parts list. Now I start to get confused! The former has six terminal - 56, 56a, J, S, 30 & F the latter has 5 terminals! (it seems to lack J) According to the wiring diagram on the original unit 56 - Black and white to switch J - Black & White to fuse box ((fuse 10 left to right) 56a - white to fuse box 3 (left to right) F - yellow to fuse box 5 (left to right) 30 - red to interior light S - Brown & white wire to dip switch on indicator switch err how do I convert this to the 5 terminal format??  Al help appreciated Best Wishes Graham |
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Post by bobnotch on Apr 16, 2012 13:45:05 GMT -8
I am also working to sort my headlights out. The cylindrical 'hand dimmer' relay on my 76 12v car is kaput. Reviewing the parts list it is part no 343 941 583 (availability nil!) but is was replaced with 111 941 583A according to the parts list. Now I start to get confused! The former has six terminal - 56, 56a, J, S, 30 & F the latter has 5 terminals! (it seems to lack J) According to the wiring diagram on the original unit 56 - Black and white to switch J - Black & White to fuse box ((fuse 10 left to right) 56a - white to fuse box 3 (left to right) F - yellow to fuse box 5 (left to right) 30 - red to interior light S - Brown & white wire to dip switch on indicator switch err how do I convert this to the 5 terminal format?? Al help appreciated Best Wishes Graham Put the wire for terminal J to 30, and hook the rest like you have them, and it should work. Looking at the diagrams, that's really the only change, and in reality, there's a small jumper wire from J to 30, to power up the dome light. You could also go to the 4 terminal relay too. Just follow how the 68 to 70 t-3s are wired up.  |
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Post by Graham Filmer on Apr 18, 2012 16:10:43 GMT -8
Many thanks Bob, with sealed units I've gone for a set up in US spec using a jumper between 56 and 30 works a treat, albeit no flasher option now.
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