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Post by Thom Fitzpatrick on Jan 6, 2013 16:00:19 GMT -8
I have 2 different types of bumper guards, and I don't know what is what. One set is made of pot metal, with a more pointed end; the other set is made of steel, and more shallow. From my experience with my T14, the stamped steel guards were the early version, and the pot metal version came later.    |
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Post by Lee Hedges on Jan 6, 2013 18:25:44 GMT -8
The "pointed" bumper guards were the early style (1962-65) that had the stud fixed inside the guard permanently.
The "rounded" bumper guards were the later style (1966-69) that had the mounting plate fixed inside the guard permanently.
You have one of each. The "pointed" guard is much more difficult to replace than the "rounded" guard.
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Post by Thom Fitzpatrick on Jan 6, 2013 18:43:34 GMT -8
Thanks for the reply! I actually have a set of each, I just didn't know which ones were correct. So, the correct rears that I have are really nice, but the fronts are in sad shape. While this stuff goes off to the chrome shop, maybe I can get started on my interior (hint, hint  ) |
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Post by Thom Fitzpatrick on Jan 6, 2013 18:54:29 GMT -8
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Post by Greg Skinner on Jan 6, 2013 19:42:25 GMT -8
D&S Custom Plating in Garden Grove do a great job on pot metal overriders.
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Post by Thom Fitzpatrick on Jan 7, 2013 5:46:04 GMT -8
Here's what the front ones look like  |
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Post by Greg Skinner on Jan 7, 2013 17:22:22 GMT -8
I had two broken studs on my rear overriders. I had a friend cut down the studs, then weld on new threaded sections. Then I shipped them out for replating.
I've got to wonder how well the one on the right will stay replated.
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Post by Thom Fitzpatrick on Jan 8, 2013 5:04:51 GMT -8
I was able to extract the studs with some heat, penetrating oil, and creative swearing. Perhaps welding on a new stud would have been a better idea, because the threads got galled badly. OTOH, the studs were in horrible shape; I had to weld nuts to the stud because the threads had deteriorated so badly that there wasn't enough material to lock onto. After all was said and done I ended up having to re-tap the threads to 10mm   |
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Post by Jürgen Klein on Jan 8, 2013 12:43:57 GMT -8
I also drive my original alloy overriders on my car . All 4 ! . They are all rechromed , a bit difficult to do because of the porous material .
But also all studs were rotten so I cutted them at the ground , drilled new holes in the overriders and fixed them with long stainless steel bolts to the bumper at assembling ( Using Vaseline) . That worked very well and stainless steel in alloy is better than normal steel .
I stored them as they were ready for over 20 years in daily-news-paper on a dry place in a wooden box . Now , after all these years , you can see little pits an lines .
Jürgen
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Post by Carsten Klein on Jan 10, 2013 21:31:38 GMT -8
I got a lot of erly pointed ones good for rechroming in my parts stock ...
Picked two rear early NOS ones last week in netherlands keverwinterfestijn
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Post by bobnotch on Jan 17, 2013 11:39:08 GMT -8
I'm looking for a decent early style left rear. But, I'd hate to break up a set, and I really don't need a 3rd right one either. Can anyone help?
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